Saturday, January 30, 2010

坂本龙一, 村上春树

阿菲有首歌,《如果你是假的》,唱着

如果你是玛莉
是茱莉 查理 还是坂本龙一
会不会有很大关系
啊如果你是假的
思想灵魂住在别的身体
我还爱不爱你

记得在那个潮湿的八月的阿拉斯加,一天八百英里的漫长旅途,我和Troubadour听阿菲听了一路,当然对这首歌的意义作了一分钟的热烈讨论,一致认为,应该是有很大关系。哈哈!

今天贴一个坂本龙一的钢琴小品, Solitude



这个作品是坂本龙一为根据村上春树同名小说改编的电影《托尼瀑谷》而作的原声音乐,果然名副其实,Solitude非常的有孤独感,适合秋日下雨的午后听。

说到村上春树,我很惭愧,这个风靡的小资作家,我居然是在这一年才开始看他的书,还都是英文版(可见他在美国之受欢迎程度)。第一本书读的是“Kafka on the Shore”。说起来可笑,选这本书的原因是,我没读过卡夫卡,而Sophie经常写到卡夫卡,所以我就希望这本书也许可以让我了解卡夫卡(其实没有)。我当时根本都不知道Haruki Murakami就是村上春树(我的日语已经完全交还老师了)。多么奇怪的故事啊,诡异,怪诞,不可思议。后来又看了“A Wild Sheep Chase",可以完全用同样的形容词来形容。再之后又看了”Blind Willow, Sleeping Woman"短篇故事集。我觉得,坂本的这个Solitude非常符合村上的特质。

Monday, January 25, 2010

The Brothers Four - Seven Daffodils



I do not have a mansion, and I haven't any land,
Not even one dollar to crinkle in my hand.
But I can show you morning on a thousand hills,
And kiss you and give you seven daffodils.

I do not have a fortune to buy you pretty things,
But I can weave you moonbeams for necklaces and rings,
And I can show you morning on a thousand hills,
And kiss you and give you seven daffodils.

Oh, seven golden daffodils, all shining in the sun,
To light our way to evening when our day is done.
And I will give you music, and a crust of bread,
A pillow of piney boughs to rest your head.

__________________________________________________

四十多年之后,还是如此深情。

Friday, January 22, 2010

它使一切受难的人感到温暖,觉得这世界还有希望

选自《新华日报》1943年7月4日 社论《民主颂——献给美国的独立纪念日》

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我一个读书少的人,总是后知后觉。

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Change

One of the most liberal states in the US has just elected a Republican senator. Anyone can use the slogan 'Change, that's what we need'. Suddenly it became a double-sided sword.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

秘鲁第九天--印加古道(4) 马丘皮丘 (第三部分)以及 热水小镇

这一天可是意义非凡的一天,以至于我用跨越两年的时间,把它分成三个部分来写!我今天一定要写到从马丘皮丘下来。你们大伙儿使劲地批评我吧,因为我的06阿拉斯加,07秘鲁,08美西南大圆环,这些游记都开了头,却没有一个写完。虽然09年我没怎么玩,但是也去了旧金山,多伦多短期访友,这些,我都没写呢。我的2010年旅游大计眼看就要拉开序幕,是时候把前面的游记给告以段落了。


首先秀一下我在马丘皮丘得的一个纪念章,盖在我的护照上,同页上有秘鲁入出境记录,对面就是秘鲁签证,也给你们看看,是多么的简陋,就是一张纸,连我的名字都没有,再贴上两张总值30 soles(虽然我交的是30美刀)的秘鲁邮票,盖两个章,就成了。和约翰同学谈起此事,他说,很久以前签证就是这个样子,贴本国邮票的。我算是长见识了!说起签证,我的伟大祖国的护照可真是不好用啊,上哪儿都要签证,免签证的是扳手指(也许需要加上脚趾)就能数过来的寥寥数国。我们现在日渐飞速强大起来,都要取代日本成为世界第二大经济了,什么时候我们也可以免签证去100多个国家呢?我觉得呢,要想让别人瞧得起,首先得自己瞧得起自己。什么时候咱本国公民去香港澳门不需要许可证了(还人民的国家呢),我们就快有希望了吧!

扯远了,让我们回到马丘皮丘吧。南端是农业基地,一层层的梯田,间或有一些错落的房舍。
剑麻开花,好高啊,竟然是蓝色!
马丘皮丘当年的房顶是木头和茅草做的,早已被岁月抹去了踪迹。其实很多房屋也倒塌了。我们现在看到的马丘皮丘,只有30%左右是原样,60%是用留下来的一堆堆的石头重建的。Ruben向我们讲解如何重建-每一块石头都有标号的,房顶是这样搭起来的。
石头凿出的排水渠。
今天的天气多云,一会儿又是阴天。

我的照片,证明我确实到了这里。春天的十月,气温变化很大,随着日头升高的,还有温度。

居民区,整齐的巷道。
居民区外侧,靠近主广场。光滑的墙。
大雕神殿

印加人为什么突然放弃了马丘皮丘,再也没有回来,这是一个谜。要知道,这么大的工程,没有四五十年是完不成的,又是这么重要的祭祀太阳神的圣地,山巅重镇,什么样的原因让他们选择了放弃呢?专家学者有很多种理论。Ruben认为,是食物的供应突减,迫使印加人撤离马丘皮丘。想想这也不是没可能啊,我们的大地妈妈气候变化还是很无常的,农业生产是第一个受影响的。

集体活动结束后,我到马丘皮丘的西侧去探险。这里的山势非常陡峭,我都是小心的沿着内侧走,怕一不小心就会滚落600米以下的Urubamba河。已经时值正午,马丘皮丘上游人如织,这里却是人迹罕至,成了我一个人的天地。陪我的,就是这长在石缝里的秋海棠,还有穿着保护色的蜥蜴。我一直走到小径失修,走不下去的地方。当年这里应该是有路的。马丘皮丘失落的这三百年,都发生过什么呢?我一个人,坐在古人垒砌的梯田上,看着这险峻的山,却怎么也难以想象当年马丘皮丘是怎样的繁荣景象--我和他们隔着时空,任凭怎样我也触摸不到。我在这里慨叹失落的文明,为印加文化没有能产生文字留下记录而惋惜。我也为马丘皮丘这奇迹而折服。人类,真的是有无限的创造力。





我坐在那里,我又在想,我的一个愿望就这么实现了吗?我竟然也越过了死女人关口,沿着印加古道,带着朝觐的心情来到了马丘皮丘了吗?就是这里吗?一切都像是在做梦,却又不是梦。我是真实地站在这里,呼吸着这里的空气,看着这山巅的石头城。我触摸着他们雕琢的岩石,细密合缝到塞不进一张纸的祭祀殿宇。我不是文人,我不会作诗写文章,我不知道我还能做什么样的感想。J,谢谢你告诉我格瓦拉的《摩托日记》。我在马丘皮丘上,却不知道有这样一次改变一个人和他的那个时代历史的旅行;直到两年以后,我才去了解这些。那一天,在马丘皮丘上,我没有狂喜的感觉,我有的是愿望实现的那种小小失落,就像是我知道了我不用高考就能上大学,我能出国,就是那样。我的人生,还有很多愿望有待实现,我不要再失落。

我坐在那里,看着这险峻的山,我想起了六岁时住过半年的石门镇,一个小到只有横竖两条街的滇西小县城。从昆明坐两天的汽车才能到达的小镇,澜沧江的支流在这里转一个弯,接纳一条更小的支流。江水汹涌,江面上有一架铁索桥。我在铁索桥上跑。大人告诫要小心,说是江水每年都要吃几个人的。记忆里石门镇就是被陡峭的群山包围起来的。小支流的那一边,山上有个庙,去往庙里的路边有一个石亭,我的回忆里它是整个从一大块岩石里冒出来的,有与顶不相称的极矮的高度,却与那块岩石连成浑然一体。说到这里,你一定发现了我的记忆是多么不靠谱。我对山的陡峭印象也是不靠谱的。所以我想,还是不要故地重游了吧,就保留这样的记忆不好吗?小时候的我是爱孤独的(一个六岁的小孩,和爸爸妈妈弟弟分居四地,是不是有理由爱孤独?)。记得很多次放学后,我在学校后面的山坡田埂旁独自漫步,渴了就喝一口田间小溪里从山上流淌下来的清甜的水,从来没有担心过会生病。当然,我也有和小朋友一起玩的时候。我还记得夕阳里坐在小支流中的大石头上把趟河水打湿的裤腿晒干的情形。陪我的那个小姑娘,她现在是什么样呢?

我又回到了现实,回来和H坐在一起。从我们身边走过去一对美国夫妇(听他们说话听出来的)和他们的导游,去我探险的那边留影。有一个小伙子也过去了。看一看这是多么陡峭的地势!他们走回来,和我们寒暄两句。这时H和我问了我们蓄谋已久的问题:“你们不会碰巧知道World Series(美国职棒大联盟季后赛)的结果吧?”这位先生顿了一秒钟,说:“知道。”我们迫不及待地问:“昨晚谁赢了?”“红袜子。”H和我听闻,差不多都跳了起来,兴奋不已,解释说,我们从波士顿来的,是红袜子迷。其实我只是个伪迷,只有我的home teams进入决赛,并且快要赢的时候,我才看比赛。所以我很容易就屈指数一数我看过的比赛:2004年职棒大联盟季后赛,2005年美式足球超级碗,2008年NBA决赛-我居然没有看成决胜的那一场,看的是倒数第二场,比分追来追去,我的脑袋很受刺激,所以比赛不能多看,会有损我的健康和智力。再比如2008年美式足球超级碗,最后一分钟我整个从天堂掉下了地狱,唉,只能安慰自己,it's only a game。

闲话说完,再说这位先生从他的口袋里掏出了旅馆提供的一张缩影的当天的纽约时报重要版面,赫然印着《波士顿红袜子赢得大联盟季后赛》,送给了我们。于是这份报纸,就被我永久收藏了。H和我在想,我们中间的死忠红袜子迷V是不是也得到这个消息了呢?要知道V为了时刻跟随红袜子,专门买了秘鲁手机卡,以便她的哥哥姐姐可以实时为她发送比赛的短信。前三个晚上我们都在深山老林里,今早一到马丘皮丘V就满世界的找手机信号未果。后来我们得知,V那时就跑到门口去找手机信号了。

虽然舍不得,我们终究要离开。走之前再好好地看一眼吧。马丘皮丘其实还有好多没有恢复重建的地方,比如这个前景:


我们要坐4点钟的背包客火车离开,所以1点钟的时候,我们坐上汽车离开马丘皮丘。Bingham公路转来转去随着陡峭的山势而建,并且没有铺沥青或水泥,车子开过,尘土飞扬。让人担心的是,弯道错车,把握不好就会滚下去吧。转过两三个弯,马丘皮丘就在视野中消失了。我在心里和它说再见。如果我70岁的时候,还能有这样的体力,我想再来一次徒步。

越过Urubamba河,到达热水小镇Aguas Clientes。话说我前一天晚上难眠(再前一天睡太多的缘故),听到唱生日歌。这个疑问在凌晨的时候就解开了。为我们服务的旅行社有两个团,我们八个人是报名晚的,单独组了个团;报名早的,大约16个人,是第一个团,他们有两个导游,其中一个很年轻,很潮的感觉,居然喜欢上了H,所以偷偷告诉她说,今天是我们的导游Ruben的生日,但是Ruben很害羞,低调。原来是这样。我们八个人决定在热水小镇为他庆祝一番。V和H去了镇上唯一一家甜品店,买了好多蛋糕。Ruben非常吃惊,我们为他庆祝生日,看得出来,他很高兴。蛋糕没吃完,我们帮他打包,他要带回去让他的太太和一双儿女尝一尝,这些蛋糕都算是奢侈品呢。早上的时候,Ruben就跟我们讲回去该怎样搭火车,说餐馆老板会带我们去火车站,下午他要搭早一班火车回库斯科,因为好几天没见家人了,想在儿女睡觉之前见到他们。其实他没告诉我们的,是家人要为他庆祝生日。好温馨的家庭!Ruben跟我们讲了他和他太太的爱情故事,简单到不能再简单:他20岁出头的时候见到了一个让他怦然心动的姑娘,就是她了!他请他的父母找媒人,去姑娘家说亲事,姑娘答应了,他们就恋爱结婚了。


写到这里,我就又忍不住要对比一下了。第一个团的年轻新潮导游还偷偷塞给H他的名片,并且留下了他的手机号码,还写着,“我喜欢你。我今晚10点去XX舞厅,你会来吗?”我们都一脸坏笑地问H,“你会去吗?你男友介意吗?”H的回答是两个No,但是脸上也泛过一丝绯红。在餐厅的时候,我去用洗手间,回来就见第一个团在那里大笑,我们团的人在偷笑。原来,那个年轻新潮导游处处留情。一个女生说,新潮导游邀她看星星,说天冷要和她一起披毯子。不料被她发现,原来新潮导游头天晚上已经邀过另外一个女生看星星了!哎,你说为什么这些女生会认为看星星是很浪漫的事呢?我觉得是很科学的事情!

午饭以后我和M在热水小镇转了一圈,耗时不超过一刻钟。这是一个完全因为旅游而存在的小镇,是前往马丘皮丘的中转站,有无数的餐馆,旅店,还有泡温泉的地方。

热水小镇中心广场
无处不在的中餐馆,在秘鲁叫Chifa
街景


中巴掉头,技术得非常好才不会掉河里。

我们的火车以极慢的速度离开热水小镇。然后换旅行社的巴士,晚上八九点的时候我们回到了库斯科。

Tuesday, January 05, 2010

Ultimate Devotion

"I need to collect some samples!"

This was the dying words of a mortally wounded scientist when she saw the abundant biofluorescent species while being carried into the jungle for a desperate attempt to save her life. That was the only moment the whole audience laughed out loud when I saw the movie Avatar. I was annoyed by the obvious cliche and stereotyping which in effect ridiculed the dedication of the devoted scientist. But then again, just like the plot of the whole story, are we really expecting something more ingenious in the script?

Finally I realized why I seldom go to movies. The reason: I do not get my money's worth of entertainment, because I inevitably fall asleep in a movie theater no matter what is showing! Even the imaginative, visually stunning, action-packed 3D Avatar wouldn't keep me awake for the whole time. I fell asleep right after Jake conquered the dragon-like creature (how come I felt that the forced bonding between him and the creature was as distasteful as a rape?) and flew side by side with Neytiri. When I finally regained consciousness, they were already sleeping together and now it was him who couldn't wake up while her jungle was being destroyed by human beings. Can somebody tell me how much I have missed?

Now I remember that I also fell asleep during the only other 2 movies I saw in 2009 in a movie theater: Up in 3D, and Harry Potter. That makes 3 out of 3. What's wrong with me? Maybe I should just watch DVDs, because I can always go back and watch it again.

Sunday, January 03, 2010

Freakonomics

It took me just one day to finish the New York Times bestseller Freakonomics: A Rogue Economist Explores the Hidden Side of Everything by Steven D. Levitt and Stephen J. Dubner, a holiday gift from J. What an eye opener! Thank you, J! I really enjoy this book!

Only before yesterday, Economics to me was a subject that I felt I couldn't get close to, or enjoy studying. Like all the college students in China, I was required to study Marxist political economics; for a change, I took a selective in Keynesian economics. Neither course interested me much. To me, Economics dealt with people, and people are irrational, thus Economics couldn't be as rational as natural sciences. So I stuck to my dear natural sciences, and had not looked at Economics other than a simple demand and supply curve.

Freakonomics grabbed my attention from the very beginning. The provocative idea that Roe v. Wade actually contributed to the decrease in crime in the 1990s really intrigued me. I won't give away what the book talks about so that you can enjoy reading it, too. The book made me realize that economists study their subjects just like scientists do: with careful controls. Only by doing so can one arrive at a valid conclusion and understand how things work this way but not that. I am glad to find that the book totally changed my attitude towards Economics. Now I believe that Economics is really science, a social science, the only difference from natural science being that it deals with people and people's incentives. How correct I have been, that people are irrational, and people's incentives can be very strange!

Now some random thoughts:

1. The first time I spent time to learn what was Roe v. Wade was when I saw the debut performance of Joe Wong, a Chinese immigrant comedian, on the David Letterman Show. Answering the question "what is Roe v. Wade?" he looked around, and said, "two ways of coming to the US?" I had to check it out in order to understand his joke! So, Troubadour, I still need a lot of enlightenment about the US law!

2. Speaking about cheating teachers (yes, teachers cheat, too!), I now believe that Sword Angel's Chinese Revolution History teacher was one. Remember that your class got a list of important stuff to study? Our teacher gave us nothing. So I was a little nervous to just study based on the list, worrying that it might be misleading. Oh boy, wasn't I surprised to see the exam which was literally every second point on the list! So the question was, what was the incentive for the teacher to do so? Was he simply very sympathetic to us poor students who had to put up so much effort on recent history on top of our work load in our major?

3. What a surprise to learn that the economics of drug dealing is so similar to that of any big company, in that lower rank employees strive to become the top executive so that they'd be paid better!

4. The chapter on good parenting makes me feel disheartened. The authors seem to believe that how a child turns out depends on whom his/her parents are, not what they do. So should I feel lucky that I have parents who were well educated, thus I myself became well educated? Does gene determine it all?

5. While I was starting to write this entry, a high school classmate came online on MSN (I seldom sign on MSN) so we chatted. He then said, "as an economist in Shanghai, I'd like to hear your opinion on the next economic drive, seeing that we've had a sustained development driven by the revolution in the IT industry for the past 20 years." Me, a biologist? I then told him that I had only been enlightened by Freakonomics only yesterday, and I really enjoy it and now I like to study people, too!

6. The last time I read a book as exciting as this was David Pollan's The Botany of Desire. I would love to have more suggestions for exciting books!

7. I am going to work on Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking next. Thank you, Troubadour! Hopefully I can at least show you some photos, if not my cooking itself!